Saturday, September 23, 2017 Filed in: Fabrics
This pieced narrow pant is easy to sew, so slimming and such a great basic that once you've made the first pair and tuned up the fit, you'll want to whip them up in all your favorite colors and fabrics.
- Choose a fabric with good stretch - mid/heavy weight pontes are perfect, though you could use a lighter weight ponte too.
- This style will also work well with a stretch woven, 4 way stretch is ideal.
- For the pattern envelope, we used ponte, the gray a mid weight, the bronze metallic a sturdy weight
- A woven with 2 way stretch must have very good stretch and recovery. In this case, cut wider seam allowances and add a bit (12/"-1") to the crotch depth to allow for more ease and a slightly looser fit, and fit as you sew.
- Construct the front and back pieces first, then sew the inseam, next the crotch.
- At this point, try on the pant
- Pin the side seams along stitching line, wrong sides together, and try the pant on. Make any necessary alterations to the fit before sewing the side seam
- We used double thread for the topstitching to add extra definition, using a sharp point/jeans topstitching needle.
This bell shaped skirt is designed for knits, ponte, jersey, novelty sweater type knits. Lightly fitted in the hips, the style has a draped curve at the hem but reads as a slim lined skirt. It can be worn front to back or back to front!
- The fabric must have enough stretch to pull on over the hips.
- For the pattern envelope prototypes we used a double sided ponte in teal/black (sold out) and a red wool blend ponte (sold out).
- Make it in one of our Parisian, Parisian Plus or Barcelona knits and it is very elongating and slimming. Use any of our 5 Star, Gateway or Premier pontes too.
- Adjust the length and hip/waist ease before cutting.
- Lay out the pattern the way it will be sewn to visualize how the pieces go together.
- Transfer markings carefully.
- Color code the matching points with chalk or different color thread & tailor tacks.
- I use embroidery thread to make tailor's tacks as the thickness and 'tooth' of the thread stays in place.
These photos show laying the pieces out flat to see how the skirt is constructed......
The Tricky Bit
Once the skirt is constructed, the bell shape is formed by tucking under the shaped piece to form the sculptural hem. The video shows how.