This chic version of a classic shirt, has a pleated collar, asymmetrical pleat on right front and back and asymmetrical hem with layered peplum. This simple to sew pattern lends itself to many design iterations and the envelope contains both long and short versions. All shirts shown are the long version.
Butterick 6325, Version 1 - pieced in cotton
This version is made up of three different Japanese cottons from marcytilton.com. Pre-washed in my usual cavalier fashion -- a quick wash and a toss in the dryer, then to the ironing board. The fun part is figuring out what goes where. Placement is pondered but frequently the size of the remnant determines what happens with it. In this version a seam was created on the left back side to utilize a piece of the pale green. It was needed to balance the sleeve and underside of the collar.
Underside of collar Butterick 6325
The under collar was pieced, using the selvedge edge as an overlap. It's such a joy using the selvedge edge of these beautiful Japanese cottons as they frequently have words printed on them. The selvedge edge was used for the sleeve 'hems' on this shirt and French seams keep the look tidy when the sleeves are rolled up.
Version 2 -- in striped rayon
Into loving blue these days. Certain blues are known in the trade as being 'denim friendly' (I'm such a jeans girl).
Version 3 -- an irregularly dyed rayon and linen blend
When washed and dried this fabric softened but kept its body. Sewed up like a dream. I used the selvedge again, as sleeve edges, as the 'hem' edge on the peplum panels and as trim on the collar.
Collar detail with selvedge accent
Front of collar with selvedge detail
The pattern piece for the under collar was cut double and used for the top collar as well, eliminating the pleats. The selvedge trim's length was determined by what scraps of selvedge were left. Edges that would show were hemmed and pinned randomly to the collar, folded a bit for interest and then stitched into the collar seam. (After stitching up six plus shirts I am ready for some variations!)
Here you can see the back pleat and peplum detail
Then there's the question of fabric. Butterick 6325 is perfect for linen (mid to lightweight), cottons and other wovens with or without stretch.
All the fabric is from marcytilton.com.
Now about the yardage and layout... The back piece of this pattern is asymmetrical and wider at the hem which means it's an ample pattern piece, more so in the larger sizes. The pattern envelope only notes yardage for 60" fabric. If you look online you can find many fabric conversion charts which will help knowing how much to buy.
There are several solutions to the layout of the fabric. The Japanese cottons are narrow which is one reason a back seam was added. Add a back seam or on a firm woven the back can be cut on the crossgrain.
Still openings in our ParisTilton tour in May and November if you want to join us! We always have a great time.