Vogue 9322: The Pocket Vest
Vogue 9322 vest is versatile, flattering and functional and continues my 2018 theme to create designs that are pieces that layer together and build a wardrobe that can travel, work for everyday life and crossover the seasons. In my own wardrobe I have 3 versions with plans for more. A big plus is that the vest works in both knit and woven fabrics.
For the pattern envelope, we used a green nylon taffeta and gray dotted ponte/double knit, but the more I work with this design, I can see it in many other fabrics. The style calls for fabric with some drape, taffeta, double knits, ponte, linen, lightweight suitings. I’m imagining it in eyelet or a sheer for summer to layer over tunics and t-shirts, also can see using a linen, then wetting it and pleating the finished garment. The important thing is that it is not too crisp, but fabrics with a bit of structure can smooth out body fluff. I also love this as a layering piece that will slip under a jacket or coat. Take into consideration that the back side will show and that the texture should slide over/under other garments
Consider these fabrics:
- washed taffeta (washing softens, makes more malleable, adds overall crinkles)
- cottons and shirting
- light wools
- nylon taffeta
- light weight rainwear
- stable lace and mesh
- light weight/drapey suitings
- stable jersey (4 way stretch might be too heavy and tend to stretch)
My own versions use the same ponte as on the pattern envelope, a nylon taffeta and an Italian suiting. The suiting was a surprise, it has a bit of substance, but good drape and I love wearing it. The ponte version is soft and cozy, like a light weight sweater. The black taffeta is a travel favorite, the nylon/metal fabric holds a crinkle yet does not look wrinkled, folds to nothing to pack, smooths the body, adds just a touch of warmth, layers easily under a jacket and feels delicious.
Black Nylon Taffeta
Lightweight Woven Suiting
- Interface the pocket opening to keep it from stretching - trust me, you’ll want to USE the pockets. I have to remind myself not to stuff them too full!
- If your fabric is bulky or sheer, consider using a different fabric for the pocket back. On my multicolored vest I used a cotton broadcloth to reduce bulk.
- Before sewing the side seams together finish the fronts and back neck edges with bias binding as described above, making miters as described.
The binding is the finish that refines the vest. Take the time to test which result works best with your fabric.
- Bind the garment edges and hems BEFORE sewing the side seams and joining the peplum to the upper back.
- For the binding, on a knit, use either lengthwise, cross grain or bias - test to see which works best
- Bind to finish on the front/right side or wrong side.
- On a woven fabric, use bias
- On a knit, use the crossgrain, it is optional to use bias with a knit, make a test to determine which works best with your fabric
- Make a test to determine the best width for the binding.
- Make a test of the miter.
- The binding can be sewn to the right side and turned to the wrong side of the garment for a clean finish.
- Or it can be stitched to the wrong side of the garment and turned to the right side for a contrasting finish.
- Finish the edges on the armholes, vest back/front and the hem on the lower back peplum before stitching it to the upper back
- Bind Armholes while the garment is flat
- Bind all edges (front hems, center front, back neck) using self or contrasting bias and mitering corners.
- Trim seam widths as needed.
- Cut bindings to finish at ½ - ⅝” and the measurement of the garment fronts from shoulder to shoulder, piecing as needed.
- Edges are bound with single bias
- Cut bias strips 2” wide: OK to piece
- Cut one long strip the measurement of the outer front garment edge,
- Cut one strip to bind the back peplum hem, which is finished separately from front edge.
Guidelines for cutting and sewing with bias:
- I buy 1/3 - 1/2 yard extra so that I can cut long strips of bias.
- Pull threads or tear so the fabric is squared up on a flat cutting surface...my preference is to cut using a rotary cutter.
- Place a 45 degree angle clear ruler on the fabric and align a metal yardstick along the bias line and mark with a fine line chalk marker.
- Cut binding wide to allow for stretching
- Bias stretches, and when it stretches it becomes longer and narrower. When cutting bias for binding, begin by cutting a length of bias that is WIDER by 1" than the finished width to allow for stretching.
- Make a small test piece to see how your fabric stretches.
- Cut binding longer; when bias stretches it becomes wider at the ends and narrower in the center of the long strip. Use the center portion.
Press to take the stretch out
- This technique is straight from the workrooms of French couture houses, and works for small pieces of bias and longer/larger pieces.
- Position the bias cut strip on an ironing board
- Press, stretching gently
Re-cut to desired width
- Take the pressed strip back to the cutting table
- Using a clear ruler and rotary cutter, trim it to an even width
- Keep the length longer than needed, makes it easier to handle and you can trim after sewing
Tips for stitching the binding, both bias and knit
- Sew the binding to the edge using a 5/8" seam allowance.
- Stitch in a 1 to 1 ratio, don’t stretch the bias as you stitch.
- No pins are necessary, just keep the edges even,
- Stitch almost to the corner, stitch to just one stitch from the corner, back tack.
- I put a pin at 5/8" from the corner so I know where that point is.
- Remove the garment from the pressure foot and clip the top bias fabric only, at a diagonal, from the corner just to your stitching. This will allow the bias to turn the corner. Swivel the bias around so that the cut edge lines up with the edge of the garment.
- Line up the fold of the bias with the corner edge.
- This covers your previous stitching so put in a pin as marker just a stitch from your previous stitching at the 5/8" stitching line.
- Back tack and continue stitching around.
- Sew all the corners and angles around.
- Trim the seam allowance to an even width (about ½”), press, and turn the bias trim.
- Miter the corners by folding and pressing the fabric in place.
- Do not trim away the fabric in the miter
- Fold under the raw edge of the bias trim and edge stitch.
Plays well with others too...
Another plus to this stellar garment is that it layers beautifully over my new Tuck Tunic, Vogue 9317, as well as V9057, V9130, V9272, V9300.