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The Hoodie: Hiding in Plain Sight

Hiding in Plain Sight

Worn by men, women and children, beloved by skateboarders, athletes, students and the uniform of tech geeks, the hoodie is a garment so universal it can almost render a person invisible. A group of engineers spent a year researching to create the greatest hoodie ever made, click on the link to see if you agree.

My new hoodie pattern keeps the functionality with a feminine dash of sophistication. Visiting Vogue patterns last month, I was honored to discover that Vogue 9244, a hoodie, is the #1 best seller.

Vogue 9244

The scoop:

Lightly fitted, skims the figure with a slightly raised waistline in the back. Flares out over the hips which makes fitting easier. Knit stripes form a dual purpose, covering the seams and adding a pop of contrast. Has flat functioning pockets that don't add a lot of bulk.

Fabrics used for the pattern envelope:

  • Black and white double weave ponte (sold out)
  • Lavender and gray toned Visage Knit, a digital panel print from a French mill in a light weight sweater-y French terry.
  • Both fabrics flew out the door as soon as the pattern was released.

The good news! More Visage Panels Coming Soon

I'm very excited that the French mill is printing a special order of the Visage Knit just for us. We're waiting for it to arrive, hopefully mid March, and it will appear in the NEW FABRICS section on the website.

Recommended fabrics:

Go light weight to beefy on this style. If you cut it in a thicker fabric make wider side seam allowances to allow for fitting.

  • ponte
  • double knit
  • sweater knits
  • French terry
  • sweatshirt fleece
  • cotton/lycra or rayon/lycra jersey
  • microfiber.

Marcy's Hoodie Fabric Picks. Organized in one place on the site!

Click on the link above to see the fabrics on the website that could be used for a hoodie.

The New York Times posted the hoodie as a trend at New York Fashion Week. On the far right, an editor from Vogue magazine.

My new favorite things to wear right now: the hoodie jacket and t-shirt.

I used our Tricorn Black Jacquard Ponte for the body and Dick Tracy Stripe for the trim and the t-shirt. The red binding came out of my stash.

Use the hoodie pattern to make the t-shirt

  • Eliminate the hood
  • Cut the center front on a fold, placing the fold line at the center front line
  • I opened up the neck, lowered the back neck about 3/8"
  • Matched the front to the back at the shoulder seam
  • Used the neckline from a favorite basic t-shirt for the center front neckline
  • Made the t-shirt just a bit smaller than the jacket so it would nest under easily.
  • I bound the neck in a scrap of red knit and used a strip of another knit at the edge of the binding.
  • I re-cut the darn back peplum 3 times! First on the crossgrain...NOT a nice effect. Then on the lengthwise grain, that was not right either, finally placed it on the bias with a CB seam and that worked for me!

The two garments nest together well and are in the suitcase to go on my LA trip over the weekend!

Construction notes

  • There is NO seam allowance at the lower edge of the pocket facing and side front. This is intentional so the hem can be pressed up along the lower cut edge of the pocket the pocket is enclosed in the hem.
  • I always cut an additional 1" at the side seams to allow for adjusting the fit during construction.
  • A 2" x 48" metal ruler is one of my most often reached for tools, Also called a sheet rock ruler, can be found in the big box home improvement stores.
  • While not technically a binding, we used turned under strips of striped jersey to finish off the visible raw edges on the hood seam, neck seam and front jacket/hood facing edges.
  • Use a light weight cotton/lycra or rayon/lycra stripe.
  • Use a rotary cutter and metal ruler to cut the strips in even 1 1/4" wide lengths.
  • Use the tendency of the jersey knit to curl and press, working at the ironing board.
  • Press the strip so the edges curl towrd the center of the strip, pressing a section at a time, using a small amount of tension so the width of the band is consistent.
  • The curved hood seam is a bit tricky, so I sprayed the back side of the pressed strip with a light coating of 505 Spray, then position it so it is centered over and covering the seam and edgestitch in place.
  • The straight seams I sewed in place without pins or spray.
  • I sewed both entire garments using a walking foot, including the buttonholes and it worked beautifully!


This is only the beginning! I have another t-shirt in the works (see below), and am auditioning fabrics for another hoodie, can also see it as a vest or as a cardigan without the hood. Shelley thinks the t-shirt version could be lengthened into a dress. Beth might do an entirely hand stitched version a la Alabama Chanin. As the weather warms, I can see this in a lighter weight hoodie worn over a sleeveless tunic version of the t-shirt.

Do share what you sew with on our Facebook page for our growing family of DIY fashionistas who love to sew!

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© Marcy Tilton