Spring 2018 Marcy Patterns
Because all of life is a journey, in planning my 2018 grouping of patterns, my intention is to create designs that travel well through life, whether staying at home, going to a job, or out and about exploring the world. I travel a lot - am on a plane an average of once a month, and I want my travel clothes to function on the move as well as for days at home in the studio. I seek designs that can be dressed up or down so that the clothes I sew are worn and loved. While the tunic and pant here stand strong on their own, they are also excellent layering pieces. The shapes and silhouettes work well under a jacket, vest, sweater or coat. Upcoming pattern designs for 2018 will work well with these two. I've already sewn a couple of tunics and pants for myself and have more under construction in the studio.
I've created special collections in the website that show which fabrics would work for each pattern.
Shop Fabrics for 9300 Tunic
Shop Fabrics for 9303 Pant
These two latest patterns fit the criteria:
- Comfortable and flattering
- Layer/work with other pieces - jacket, coat, vest, sweater etc.
- Relatively simple to fit and sew
- Use fabrics that are easy to find
- Pockets (well, at least the pants)
- Flexible designs that can be changed and adapted if a person wants to veer from the pattern
Vogue 9300 Tunic
- semi-fitted in the bust
- skims the waist and hips
- two lengths
- two sleeve lengths, ¾ and full
- has an asymmetrical neck band/collar
- asymmetrical seaming front and back
- has an ‘extension’ on the front, a detail designed to give depth and dimension to the garment, it can hang free either inside or outside the top
- extend the length to make a dress
- make it sleeveless (raise the armhole approx 1” and re-draw the shoulder seam, bind the edge)
- face the hem edge
- add a small secret pocket at the front extension
- leave hem/sleeve edges raw
I used a poly/lycra ITY jersey for the print version, and a rayon/lycra stripe for the other version, others include:
- rayon or viscose/lycra
- ITY poly/lycra knits
- sweatshirt knits
- lightweight scuba
- wool jersey
- As always, tissue fit/measure the pattern so it is as close to being a good fit as you can get
- Do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) if you need one
- Determine which length works best for you before cutting out as you cannot adjust the length at the hem.
- True confessions, I had to re-do this on a couple of the versions I made. How this will ‘sit’ depends on the amount of stretch in your fabric and if you cut it on the lengthwise or cross grain.
- I recommend that you baste it in place and try it on to see how it works with the fabric and on you.
- You can make it wider/taller.
- Or, place the opening at center front
- Or,substitute a standard t-shirt neckband
- Or use any favorite neck finish
- Sew the sleeves in last and stitch them in the round. I find this makes a subtle and superior difference to sewing the sleeve flat - even in a t-shirt!
- Press up the sleeve hem facing
- OPTIONAL: Leave the sleeve hem as a raw edge
- Stitch sleeve seams, press open or serge.
- Hand stitch sleeve hem.
- Stitch the sleeves to the garment working with the garment on top.
- Most of us learned to set a sleeve with the sleeve on top, but this is so much easier; it is working with the give of the knit, so the ease just disappears.
- You need only 3 pins, one at each end and one at the shoulder seam, positioned on the seam so you can pull them out as you sew.
- Stitch, easing as you sew, keeping edges even and stitching in a straight line.
- Press the seam flat as sewn, then, working on a ham or the end of the ironing board, press the seams toward the cap of the sleeve and touch up from the right side.
- Don’t trim the seam, the seam width ‘supports’ the cap of the sleeve.
- You can serge the two seams together, keeping the shaping you pressed in, serging right along the edge to maintain the seam width. Touch up press again.
- It is fine to leave the seams raw, or do a second line of straight stitching 1/4 inch from the first within the seam allowance, and press again.
- Do not zigzag, this can stretch and distort the edge.
- Press seam allowances toward sleeve, shaping cap as you press.
I used our Domino Danish Knit (sold out), and Clair de Lune Danish Knit for the black and gray version and Pascal Panel French Digital Knit for the other (took 2 panels).
SHOP FABRICS FOR VOGUE 9300
Vogue 9303 Pant
- Slim fitting
- Nearly invisible waistline elastic is hidden in seam allowance in the facing
- 2 pockets, one with a zipper, the other open, designed to hold a cell phone, right where you need it
- Pieced, so you could use a combination of fabrics, has a subtle reticulated shaping, a trend I'm seeing in RTW.
- Stretch Wovens
- The fabric must have stretch that goes around the body.
- If your fabric has lengthwise stretch (and I am seeing more and more woven this way), cut the pant on the cross grain. Cutting on the cross grain takes less fabric - I usually use only 2 yards when cutting on the cross grain.
- For a stretch woven without much stretch, cut wider seam allowances and fit as you sew.
- The first time I sew ANY pant, including my own patterns, I am prepared to fit and sew and adjust as I go.
- Tissue fitting is a good idea.
- Establish the finished length before cutting (or come close, some room for adjustment in the lower hem piece).
- I basted one leg of the pant to try on before sewing the pocket that overlaps the side seam.
- The fit will also be determined by the amount of stretch in your fabric.
- The pattern envelope says
- To prevent rippling, sew using a walking foot. I found that the super-stretchy Ace Olive Stretch Woven rippled when sewn with a regular foot
- Because the left side pocket extends over the side seam, I baste this one leg together to fine tune the fitting before stitching the pocket in place.
- See the photos below for a cool trick to get a clean smooth line on patch pockets.
- I cut the bottom hem panel after the rest of the garment was sewn as I tapered the legs a bit during fitting/sewing.
- I used a wide hem on the hem panel to form cuffs.
Pocket Pressing Tips
- Cut a template from oak tag (manilla file folder), that is the size of the finished pocket.
- Use a scrap of pattern tissue to help form the pocket shape while pressing.
- Pattern tissue is made from wood chips (hence the unique brownish color), which makes it strong enough to withstand heat/steam/pressure so it will not tear as easily as plain tissue paper.
- Turn under the top edge and topstitch.
- Working at the ironing board, place the tissue underneath, then center the template on the pocket.
- Wrapping the tissue firmly around the fabric and template, press under the seam allowance
- Form the curves so the fabric is distributed evenly.
- Use a clapper to hold the seam allowance flat.
- Cover the design table with scrap paper.
- Cut a template from scrap paper to prevent spray from hitting the back side of the pocket.
- Use 505 Spray Adhesive, carefully spraying the seam allowance ONLY with a light coating of adhesive.
- Trim seam allowance if needed.
- Position the pocket on the garment and topstitch. The spray adhesive keeps the pocket in place while sewing and you can add pins for extra security.
I used our Celestial Sky French Digital Stretch Woven for the print pant, and Ace Olive Stretch Woven for the olive pair shown below. I am wearing the olive version as I write and am loving the fabric and the pant!
SHOP FABRICS FOR VOGUE 9303